Buying fabric is one of the most enjoyable parts of sewing, but it is also where many projects go wrong before you even thread your machine. A fabric that looks beautiful on a screen or roll can behave very differently once cut, stitched, pressed, and washed. The good news is that most common mistakes are easy to avoid once you know what to look for.
This guide breaks down the most frequent beginner fabric-buying errors and explains how to choose materials more confidently. With a few practical checks, you can make better purchases, reduce waste, and end up with finished pieces that feel and fit the way you intended.
Mistake 1: Buying Fabric Without a Clear Plan
It is tempting to purchase fabric simply because you like the colour or print. While there is nothing wrong with building a small, thoughtful stash, buying without a specific project can lead to unused fabric piling up or selecting the wrong amount. Even experienced sewists get caught out by this when they purchase “just in case” and later realise they do not have enough metreage for the pattern they want.
A better approach is to choose fabric with a particular garment or item in mind and check the pattern requirements before you buy. If you are still exploring options, browsing a broad selection such as the full fabric collection can help you compare fibres, textures, and weights while staying focused on your project goals.
Mistake 2: Ignoring Fabric Weight and Structure
Fabric weight affects how a project sits, drapes, and wears over time. A lightweight fabric might look delicate and elegant but may not provide the shape needed for structured designs. Likewise, a heavier fabric may add bulk where you wanted softness and movement.
Beginners often rely on colour and print alone, but weight and structure are usually more important to the final result. As a quick guide, think about whether your project needs to hold its shape (structured skirts, jackets, bags) or flow and move (dresses, tops, wide-leg trousers). If your pattern suggests “lightweight woven” and you choose something heavier, your garment can feel stiff or sit incorrectly at seams.
If you want an easy starting point for versatile projects, many sewists choose cotton fabrics because they are generally stable, easy to press, and forgiving during construction.
Mistake 3: Choosing the Wrong Fibre for Comfort and Wear
Fibre content influences how fabric feels on the skin, how breathable it is, and how it handles moisture and heat. A fabric can look perfect visually but still be uncomfortable if the fibre does not suit how the item will be worn. This is especially important for garments, children’s clothing, and anything that will be worn for long periods.
Natural fibres are often preferred for comfort and breathability, but they can wrinkle and may shrink if not pre-washed. Synthetics can be durable and crease-resistant, but may feel warmer or less breathable. Blends can provide balance, but it is still important to understand what you are buying.
If sustainability is a priority, consider materials that support more responsible sewing choices. Exploring sustainable fabric options can help you find fabrics that align with eco-friendly goals while still performing well for everyday projects.
Mistake 4: Overlooking Stretch and Pattern Compatibility
One of the fastest ways to create fitting problems is to buy a fabric with stretch for a pattern designed for woven fabric (or the other way around). Knit fabrics stretch and recover differently, affecting seam stability, sizing, and finishing methods. Wovens are typically more stable and will not mould around the body in the same way as knits.
If a pattern calls for stretch, choosing an appropriate knit will make the garment more comfortable and easier to fit. For beginners experimenting with stretch garments, jersey fabrics are a common starting point because they can be soft, wearable, and suitable for everyday pieces such as tops and loungewear.
A useful habit is to check whether your pattern references “stretch percentage” and test your fabric before committing. Many sewing educators recommend doing quick stretch tests and sample seams to understand how a knit will behave. Resources such as Seamwork offer helpful guidance on how different fabrics affect fit and construction.
Mistake 5: Forgetting About Shrinkage and Colour Bleeding
Many beginners discover shrinkage after the garment is finished, when the first wash changes the size or shape. This can be especially frustrating if you spent hours sewing, only to find the item suddenly feels smaller or sits differently.
Pre-washing is a simple step that prevents most shrinkage issues. Wash the fabric the way you intend to wash the finished item. If the project will be tumble dried, do that during pre-washing too. This matters for both natural fibres and some blends. Colour bleeding is another consideration, particularly with deep shades. Testing colourfastness on a small scrap can save your finished garment from unexpected fading or transfer.
Mistake 6: Buying the Wrong Amount
Under-buying fabric is common, especially when you forget to account for pattern matching, nap direction (such as corduroy), or mistakes during cutting. Over-buying can also happen when you are not sure how much is needed and you purchase “extra just in case”. The goal is to buy the right amount based on your pattern layout and any specific fabric requirements.
To avoid under-buying, consider:
- Pattern size and view selection (some views need more fabric)
- Fabric width (a narrower fabric requires more length)
- Directional prints or nap (you may need additional metreage)
- Matching stripes or checks (extra fabric helps alignment)
When you are unsure, it is safer to purchase a little extra, especially if the fabric might sell out. Buying by the metre makes it easier to get a precise amount without excessive waste.
Mistake 7: Choosing Fabric That Does Not Suit Your Lifestyle
A fabric might be perfect for a special occasion, but not practical for everyday wear. Beginners sometimes choose fabrics that require delicate washing, frequent pressing, or careful storage, only to realise the finished item is too high-maintenance to use regularly.
Before buying, think about how the item will be worn and cared for. If you want a daily piece you can wash easily, choose a fabric that supports that goal. If you are sewing something hard-wearing, prioritise durability. For example, for robust garments or practical projects, many sewists like denim fabrics because they tend to be strong and long-lasting when sewn and cared for properly.
Mistake 8: Not Testing Before Cutting
Testing is not just for advanced sewists. A quick sample seam can show you whether the fabric presses well, frays heavily, stretches unexpectedly, or reacts poorly to heat. It also helps you choose the right needle and stitch settings.
If you are working with a new type of fabric, you can also consult trusted sewing references for handling tips. Publications such as Threads Magazine often provide practical advice on selecting needles, stitches, and pressing techniques for different fabric types.
Final Thoughts
Most fabric-buying mistakes come down to one thing: choosing with your eyes rather than your project needs. When you consider fibre, weight, stretch, shrinkage, and lifestyle practicality, your sewing becomes more consistent and far less frustrating.
With each purchase, you will build confidence and develop a stronger understanding of what works for your favourite patterns. Over time, choosing fabric becomes less of a guessing game and more of an enjoyable, reliable part of your creative process.
