Jersey is a knitted fabric rather than a woven one. In its classic single-knit form it has flat "V" stitches on the face and small loops on the back. It is soft, drapey and stretches across the width. Jersey is made from cotton, viscose, polyester, wool or blends, often with elastane added for extra stretch and recovery. This guide covers what jersey is made of, how it stretches, how to sew and wash it, and how much to buy.
Jersey fabric is a popular knit fabric used in clothing. Traditionally, jersey fabric was made out of wool, but nowadays most jersey fabrics are made from cotton, viscose or polyester, or a blend that may still contain some wool. Browse our knitted jersey to see the range of fibres and weights.
Jersey has also come to be associated with activewear, such as football or basketball tops. This "synthetic jersey" is usually made from polyester or a blend of polyester and spandex (elastane). It is the same knit structure, just made from a different fibre.
The name comes from the island of Jersey in the Channel Islands, where knitted wool garments were made for fishermen. Today "jersey" describes the knit structure, whatever the fibre. Sports "jerseys" took their name from the fabric, not the other way round.
What is jersey made of?
Jersey can be knitted from almost any fibre, and the fibre changes how it feels, stretches and washes. Here is a quick guide to the main types you will find by the metre.
| Fibre | Feel | Stretch | Breathability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton jersey | Soft, matt | Moderate across the width | High | T-shirts, children's wear, casual tops |
| Cotton-elastane jersey | Soft, with more spring | Good stretch both ways, good recovery | Medium to high | Leggings, fitted tops |
| Viscose jersey | Cool, fluid drape | Moderate, more with elastane | High | Dresses, wrap tops, loungewear |
| Polyester jersey | Smooth, colourfast | Moderate to good, more with elastane | Low to medium, but quick-drying | Sportswear, bold prints |
| Wool jersey | Warm, soft | Moderate, with natural spring | High | Base layers, winter tops |
What is jersey fabric used for?
Because it is usually light to medium weight, with good stretch across the width, jersey fabric is often the fabric of choice for clothes worn close to the skin. It also has an attractive drape, making it useful for flowing garments and some homeware.
| Clothing | Homeware |
|---|---|
| T-shirts | Throw blankets |
| Jumpers | Duvet covers |
| Cardigans | Occasionally used for draped curtains (synthetic jersey) |
| Warm gloves (mittens) | Furniture covers and protectors (synthetic jersey) |
| Sports "jerseys" (synthetic jersey) | Bed sheets and fitted sheets |
| Pyjamas | Pillowcases |
| Dresses | Cushion covers |
| Gym gear (synthetic jersey) | Baby blankets and cot sheets |
| Lingerie and underwear | Stretchy storage covers |
Jersey fabric can also be used to make bags (such as totes and drawstring bags), hats, scarves, headbands and other accessories.
What can you make with jersey fabric?
Jersey is one of the most widely used fabrics in everyday clothing. Most of its uses are in the clothing world, but bedding is also an area outside of fashion where the fabric is very common. For garment ideas, see our post on jersey for everyday clothing.
- Everyday clothing: from the T-shirt you are probably wearing to underwear and everything in between.
- Activewear and sportswear: sports tops, joggers, leggings and most of what you see in the gym.
- Bedding: jersey bed sheets and fitted sheets, which are soft and stretchy and need no ironing. The stretch also makes fitted sheets easy to pull over the mattress.
What does jersey fabric feel like?
The chances are you are wearing jersey fabric right now. If you are wearing a T-shirt, then you are wearing jersey fabric.
This also shows how jersey has shifted away from being mainly wool to mainly cotton (if we leave synthetic jersey aside).
Jersey is soft and smooth on the face, with a slightly textured feel on the back where the loops sit. It stretches easily when you pull it across the width and drapes close to the body rather than standing away from it. The fibre changes the feel: cotton jersey is matt and soft, viscose jersey is cool and fluid, and polyester jersey is smooth and springy. Wool jersey feels warm and has a natural bounce.
How stretchy is jersey? Two-way and four-way stretch
Jersey stretches because of its knitted loops, which open up when you pull the fabric. Plain jersey stretches mostly across the width (two-way stretch) and has much less give along the length. When elastane is added, the fabric stretches both across and along (four-way stretch) and recovers better, so it springs back to shape instead of bagging.
To check how much a jersey stretches, try this simple test:
- Fold the fabric across the width, a few centimetres in from the cut edge.
- Hold 10cm of the fold against a ruler.
- Gently stretch it as far as it will comfortably go without distorting.
- Read the new length. If 10cm stretches to 12.5cm, that is 25% stretch. If it reaches 15cm, that is 50%.
Sewing patterns for knits usually state the stretch they need, so do this test before you cut. Jersey is different from stretch woven fabrics such as stretch denim, which are woven and get their give from added elastane rather than from knit loops.
Properties of jersey fabric: advantages, disadvantages and characteristics
Jersey fabric remains one of the most popular fabrics of all time, despite its drawbacks.
| Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|
| Soft and comfortable | Subject to pilling |
| Stretchy and flexible | Limited shape retention |
| Breathable | Colours may bleed or fade over time |
| Drapes well | Cotton jersey can shrink if not pre-washed |
| Durable | Not eco-friendly (synthetic jersey) |
| Easy to look after | Edges curl when cut |
| Natural-fibre jersey is biodegradable | Can be tricky to sew without a stretch stitch |
Different types of jersey fabrics
Different types of jersey fabric include the following:
- Single jersey: the standard T-shirt knit, with flat stitches on the face and loops on the back. It is light, drapey and the most common type you will find.
- Cloque jersey: this type is knitted in a way that adds extra loops of yarn to the fabric. The result is a distinct embossed or "puckered" texture. Normally, cloque jersey is made from cotton, linen or wool.
- Interlock or "double" jersey: a double knit made from two sets of interlocked yarns. It is thicker and more stable than single jersey, looks the same on both sides and does not curl at the edges as much.
- Jacquard jersey: this type of jersey fabric often has intricate and complex patterns and designs knitted in. It is made on jacquard knitting machines. Like other jacquard fabrics that we have, it is a more luxurious type, making it fitting for special occasions.
- Slub jersey: this type is knitted from deliberately uneven yarn, so it has an irregular, slightly bumpy texture. Despite how it sounds, it is very comfortable against the skin and is mainly used for T-shirts and casual tops.
- Stretch jersey: as the name suggests, this knit is stretchier than most other types. It is often a blend of cotton and lycra fabric (spandex) and so is very popular for all ages and all types of garment.
Jersey vs other knits: ponte, scuba, interlock and French terry
Jersey is the base of a whole family of knits. These are the ones you are most likely to compare it with.
| Fabric | What it is | Good for |
|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | Light single knit, drapey, edges curl | T-shirts, tops, summer dresses |
| Ponte Roma | Stable double knit that holds its shape | Trousers, fitted dresses, skirts |
| Scuba | Thick, smooth, structured knit | Structured dresses and skirts |
| Interlock | Double knit, looks the same on both sides | Children's wear, smooth tops |
| French terry | Smooth face with a looped back | Sweatshirts, hoodies, loungewear |
If you are new to knits, ponte Roma is the easiest to sew because it barely curls and holds its shape. Single jersey is the lightest and most drapey, but needs a little more care at the machine.
Similar, alternative fabrics to jersey
Similar knitted fabrics include French terry, which has a smooth surface on one side and a soft looped texture on the other. French terry is often used for hoodies, jumpers and other comfortable clothes to lounge around in.
Woven wool is another alternative to explore. It is warmer and more structured than a lightweight jersey, while wool jersey is soft, breathable and more form-fitting.
Viscose (a type of rayon) jersey is a good alternative to polyester jersey: cool, drapey and absorbent, though it can shrink and is less hard-wearing. Browse our rayon fabrics for options.
How to sew jersey fabric
Jersey is not difficult to sew once you set the machine up for stretch. A normal domestic sewing machine is fine.
- Pre-wash the fabric the way you will wash the finished garment, so any shrinkage happens before you cut.
- Use a ballpoint or stretch needle, size 75/11 to 80/12. The rounded tip slips between the knit loops instead of piercing them, which stops skipped stitches and holes.
- Pin with ballpoint pins or use sewing clips, for the same reason.
- Use a narrow zigzag (about 1mm wide and 2.5mm long) or your machine's stretch stitch, so the seam can stretch with the fabric without snapping.
- An overlocker is optional. It is quick and neat, but a zigzag on a normal machine works well.
- A walking foot helps feed both layers evenly and stops wavy seams.
- Do not pull the fabric while sewing. Let the machine feed it, or the seams will stretch out and ripple.
- Stabilise shoulder seams with clear elastic or stay tape so they do not stretch over time.
- Hem with a twin needle or a zigzag, which gives a stretchy hem that looks neat on the right side.
- Tame curling edges with a light spray of starch before cutting and sewing.
For seams, neckbands and fitting in more detail, read our guide to sewing stretch fabrics.
How to wash and care for jersey
- Wash at 30°C, inside out. This protects the colour and reduces pilling.
- Dry flat or tumble on low. High heat shrinks cotton jersey and damages elastane, which then loses its recovery.
- Remove pilling with a fabric shaver or de-bobbler.
- Fold heavy jersey garments rather than hanging them, because their own weight can stretch them out of shape on a hanger.
How much jersey do you need?
Most jersey is sold at about 150cm wide. The amount you need depends on your pattern, your size and the stretch, so always check the pattern envelope first. As a rough guide, with worked prices at indicative rates (prices vary by range, so check the listing):
| Project | Typical metreage at 150cm wide | Worked price example |
|---|---|---|
| T-shirt | About 1 to 1.5m | 1.5m at £2/m is £3; at £4/m, £6 |
| Leggings | About 1m | 1m at £2/m is £2; at £4/m, £4 |
| Simple jersey dress | About 2 to 2.5m | 2.5m at £2/m is £5; at £4/m, £10 |
| Pyjama set | About 2.5 to 3m | 3m at £2/m is £6; at £4/m, £12 |
| Baby sleepsuit or leggings | About 0.5m | 0.5m at £2/m is £1; at £4/m, £2 |
Add a little extra for pre-wash shrinkage on cotton jersey, for larger sizes and for prints that need matching.
Is jersey fabric eco-friendly?
Wool and cotton jersey are made from natural fibres, so they biodegrade at the end of their life. Their impact still depends on how they are produced: cotton growing uses a lot of water and often pesticides, and sheep farming can involve chemical treatments. Organic cotton jersey reduces some of this.
Synthetic jersey is at the other end of the scale. Polyester is made from oil, does not biodegrade and sheds microfibres in the wash. Recycled polyester jersey and natural-fibre options are better choices if impact matters to you.
A brief history of jersey fabric
Jersey fabric gets its name from Jersey, an island in the Channel Islands of the English Channel. Some form of jersey fabric probably existed in the medieval period, as a reliable way to make jumpers and underwear for fishermen. Over the centuries, this type of fabric gradually became more popular and spread across the United Kingdom.
Through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, jersey was adopted more widely across Europe and the United States, mainly for underwear and sportswear. Coco Chanel is widely credited with bringing jersey into fashion in the 1910s, using it for relaxed women's clothing, and it has been a mainstream fabric ever since.
Frequently asked questions
Is jersey cotton?
Often, but not always. Jersey is the name of a knit structure, not a fibre, so it can be made from cotton, viscose, polyester, wool or blends. Cotton jersey is the classic T-shirt fabric and the most common type. Always check the fibre composition on the listing, especially if you want a natural fibre or need to know how it will wash.
What is jersey fabric made of?
Jersey is knitted from cotton, viscose, polyester, wool or a blend of these. Many jerseys also contain a small amount of elastane (spandex or Lycra) for extra stretch and better recovery. Cotton jersey is soft and breathable, viscose jersey is cool and drapey, polyester jersey is smooth and quick-drying, and wool jersey is warm.
Is jersey fabric stretchy?
Yes. Jersey is knitted, and its loops let it stretch across the width even without elastane. Plain jersey has two-way stretch, while jersey with elastane usually stretches in both directions and springs back better. To check, stretch 10cm of folded fabric against a ruler: reaching 12.5cm means 25% stretch.
Is jersey fabric good for summer or winter?
It works for both, depending on the fibre and weight. Lightweight cotton, viscose and single jerseys are breathable and cool, so they suit summer tops, T-shirts, vests and dresses. For winter, choose heavier cotton jersey, wool jersey or a double knit such as interlock or ponte Roma, which hold more warmth and layer well under jumpers and coats.
Does jersey shrink?
Cotton jersey can shrink, particularly in a hot wash or tumble dryer. Viscose jersey can shrink too. Polyester jersey shrinks very little. To avoid surprises, pre-wash the fabric before cutting, then wash finished garments at 30°C inside out and dry them flat or on a low tumble setting.
Can you sew jersey on a normal sewing machine?
Yes. You do not need an overlocker. Fit a ballpoint or stretch needle (75/11 to 80/12), use a narrow zigzag or your machine's stretch stitch, and let the machine feed the fabric without pulling it. A walking foot helps prevent wavy seams, and a twin needle gives a neat, stretchy hem.
