What is Satin Made Of? A brief introduction

Satin is not a fibre. It is a weave. Long "floating" yarns lie across the surface, which gives satin its smooth, glossy face and a duller back. Satin can be made from silk (the original), polyester (the most common and affordable today), acetate, viscose or nylon. So when you buy satin by the metre, check the fibre as well as the finish.

What is Satin Fabric?

A satin weave is a type of fabric that can be made from various materials like silk and polyester. It has a characteristic soft, shiny and luxurious finish and a beautiful drape, ideal for gowns, lingerie, bedding, decor and more.

Setting it apart from "plain weaves" is its unique weaving pattern, known as the "satin weave". The threads are woven so that most of them sit on the surface, creating a smooth, lustrous appearance that reflects light and shows an elegant sheen.

Satin by fibre: silk, polyester, acetate and viscose compared

Because satin is a weave, two fabrics can look almost identical on the roll and behave very differently once you sew, wear and wash them. The fibre decides how warm it feels, how well it breathes and whether it can go in the washing machine. Silk satin is the traditional luxury version. Polyester satin is the everyday choice for dressmaking, costumes and decorations because it is affordable, hard-wearing and usually machine washable. Acetate satin is common in linings and formalwear. Viscose satin sits between them: softer and more breathable than polyester, but more delicate to wash.

Use the table as a quick guide, then check the individual listing or label, because finishes and blends vary.

Fibre	Feel	Breathability	Care	Typical uses
Silk satin	Very smooth, cool, fluid	Breathable	Usually hand wash or dry clean	Bridal, eveningwear, lingerie
Polyester satin	Smooth, slightly slippery, can feel warm	Low	Usually machine washable on a cool cycle	Dresses, linings, costumes, bedding, decorations
Acetate satin	Smooth, crisp, high lustre	Moderate	Often dry clean only; heat-sensitive	Linings, formalwear
Viscose satin	Soft, drapey, less static	Breathable	Gentle cool wash; can shrink	Blouses, slip dresses, linings

What is Satin Fabric Used For?

Satin is a popular and versatile fabric known for its smooth and lustrous surface. In clothing it is used for dresses, blouses and skirts, and it is a classic choice for bridal and eveningwear: browse our bridal fabrics or read the wedding dress fabric guide if you are planning a wedding outfit. Its slippery face makes it a good lining, so jackets and coats slide on easily. It is also used for lingerie and nightwear, bedding and pillowcases, cushions and curtains, and ribbons. Bright polyester satin is a staple for costumes and cosplay too; see our guide to cosplay costume fabric.

What Can I Make with Satin Fabric?

Satin fabric has a variety of applications, from high-end clothing and accessories to bedding and home décor. These include:

• Evening gowns and formal wear
• Lingerie and underwear
• Bridal attire
• Bedding and pillowcases
• Drapes and curtains
• Decorative items like ribbons and tablecloths

How much satin do you need?

Metreage depends on the pattern, your size and the fabric width, so always check the pattern envelope first. Bias-cut designs use noticeably more fabric than straight-grain ones, because the pieces sit diagonally across the width. As a rough starting point:

• Pillowcase: about 0.75m
• Camisole: about 1m
• Bias-cut slip skirt: about 1.5m to 2m
• Long evening dress: about 3m to 4m
• Lining a jacket: about 1.5m

As a worked example at an indicative £2/m, 1m for a camisole is £2 and 3.5m for an evening dress is £7. Prices vary by range, so check the listing.

What Does Satin Fabric Feel Like?

Thanks to its closely woven threads, satin feels incredibly smooth and silky against the skin. The face is smooth and cool to the touch, while the back is duller and less slippery.

With a cool and soft texture, it makes for perfect evening gowns, lingerie and bed linen. Polyester satin can feel slippery and tends to build static, especially in dry weather, while silk and viscose satins feel softer and cling less.

Advantages of Satin Fabric

The quality of your satin will, of course, depend on what type it is, whether it is silk, polyester, acetate or viscose. Having said that, they do share similar characteristics:

Advantages	Disadvantages
Shiny and lustrous surface	Creases easily
Drapes gracefully	Delicate and easily snags (especially silk satin)
Soft and smooth texture	Sometimes requires hand-washing or dry cleaning
Comfortable to wear	Slippery and harder to cut and sew
Breathable (especially silk satin)	Frays readily
Retains colour vibrancy	Water drops can mark some satins
Versatile and elegant	Less breathable (especially polyester satin)
Durable (especially synthetic satin)	Can build static (especially polyester satin)

Is satin breathable? Does satin stretch?

Breathability depends on the fibre, not the weave. Silk and viscose satins breathe well and feel comfortable against the skin. Polyester satin is less breathable and can feel warm, which is worth knowing for nightwear or summer dresses.

A satin weave has no built-in stretch. Stretch satin only stretches because a small amount of elastane is woven in. Like most woven fabrics, though, satin has some give on the bias (the diagonal of the fabric). That is why bias-cut satin slip dresses drape and move so well over the body, even without any elastane.

What are the different types of satin weaves?

In a satin weave, each warp yarn (or each weft yarn, in sateen-type constructions) floats over several yarns of the other set before interlacing once. The interlacing points are spread out so that no diagonal twill line shows. These long floats create the smooth and lustrous surface.

There are many types of satin weaves including:

Weave	Construction	Result
4-Harness Satin	Each warp thread goes over 3 weft threads and then under 1 weft thread.	Also called crowfoot satin. Shortest floats, so the most stable and least lustrous; can show a slight diagonal. Used in some technical fabrics.
5-Harness Satin	Each warp thread goes over 4 weft threads and then under 1 weft thread.	The most common satin. Longer floats give a smooth, lustrous surface.
6-Harness Satin	Each warp thread goes over 5 weft threads and then under 1 weft thread.	Longer floats again, with more lustre and slightly less resistance to snagging.
8-Harness Satin	Each warp thread goes over 7 weft threads and then under 1 weft thread.	Long floats give a very smooth, high-lustre surface and a more pliable feel, but it snags more easily.
12-Harness Satin	Each warp thread goes over 11 weft threads and then under 1 weft thread.	Very long floats, so a highly reflective surface but the least resistance to snagging.

What are the different types of Satin fabric?

Satin weave can be made out of various materials including:

Silk Satin: A premium quality fabric made from natural silk fibres. Its glossy surface, high thread count and soft feel make it an ideal choice for high-end fashion including bridal gowns, evening dresses, lingerie, neckties and high-end bedding.

Polyester Satin: Made from synthetic polyester fibres and used as an affordable alternative to silk satin, mimicking its shiny finish. It is ideal for blouses, dresses, skirts, jacket and coat linings, alongside home decor items like curtains.

Acetate Satin: Another man-made fabric, acetate satin has a smooth, shiny surface similar to silk satin. Its ability to look luxurious at a lower price makes it ideal for garment linings in formal wear and evening dresses.

Viscose Satin: Made from regenerated cellulose fibres, viscose satin is soft, drapey and more breathable than polyester. It suits blouses, slip dresses and linings, but needs a gentle, cool wash as it can shrink.

Duchess Satin: A heavyweight and tightly woven satin fabric with a high thread count. Its lustrous and luxurious finish, paired with its strength and ability to hold its shape, makes it ideal for bridal gowns, ball gowns, couture dresses and other structured garments.

Crepe Back Satin: A reversible fabric with a smooth, shiny satin finish on one side and a textured crepe surface on the other. Its wide versatility makes it ideal for dresses, blouses and evening wear.

Charmeuse Satin: A lightweight fabric with a smooth, lustrous face, a duller back and a fluid drape, making it ideal for lingerie, nightwear, blouses and dresses.

Double-Faced Satin: Has an identical satin finish on both sides and is often used for sashes, ribbons and accessories; basically, whenever both sides will be visible.

Stretch Satin: Stretch satin includes a small amount of elastane (called spandex in the US), which gives it flexibility and makes it ideal for form-fitting garments like dresses, leggings and activewear.

What is the difference between satin and silk?

Satin refers to the type of weave, whereas silk is a natural fibre from silkworms. You can have satin made from silk, but you can't have silk made from satin. Most satin sold by the metre today is polyester, so a shiny fabric labelled "satin" is not necessarily silk. If you want the real thing, look at our silk fabrics, and use the checks below to tell the two apart.

How to tell if satin is silk or polyester

Silk and polyester satin can look very similar at first glance. These checks help, roughly in order of how easy they are:

• Check the label or listing first. The fibre content should be stated. This is the simplest and most reliable check.
• Price. Silk satin costs many times more than polyester satin. A very low price per metre almost always means a synthetic.
• Feel. Silk warms to the touch quickly and feels less slippery and "plasticky". Polyester stays cool and slick at first and tends to build static.
• Sheen. Silk has a softer, pearly lustre. Polyester often has a brighter, whiter shine.
• The burn test. This is the textbook method. Cut a small snippet, hold it with tweezers over a non-flammable surface such as a sink or metal tray, and touch it briefly to a flame. Silk smoulders, smells like burning hair and leaves a crushable ash. Polyester melts, drips and leaves a hard bead.

Safety: only ever burn a tiny scrap, never the garment or roll. Work outdoors or in a well-ventilated room, keep water nearby, tie back hair and loose sleeves, and do not touch the melted bead, as molten polyester stays hot and sticks to skin.

What is the difference between satin and sateen?

Satin and sateen are similar in that they both use the same type of weave. Satin has a more pronounced weave with a high-gloss shine and silky feel, whereas sateen is less pronounced and often made from cotton for a softer feel. Sateen usually floats the weft yarns on the face and is typically made from spun cotton, giving a softer, lower sheen. Read our sateen cotton beginner's guide to find out more.

How to sew satin: tips for slippery fabric

Satin's smooth face is what makes it beautiful and also what makes it move around under the scissors and the presser foot. These steps make it much more manageable:

• Pre-wash if the fibre allows. Polyester and viscose satins can usually be pre-washed so any shrinkage happens before you cut. Check the label for silk and acetate.
• Cut in a single layer. Use a large, flat surface, ideally with a rotary cutter and pattern weights. Sandwiching the satin between sheets of tissue paper also stops it sliding.
• Pin carefully. Use fine, sharp pins and place them only in the seam allowance, as pins can leave permanent holes. Sewing clips are a good alternative.
• Use the right needle. Fit a new microtex needle: around 60/8 to 70/10 for light satins and 80/12 for heavier duchess satin. You can find microtex needles in our haberdashery range. Use polyester thread.
• Stop puckering. A slightly shorter stitch length and holding the fabric gently taut, front and back, both help. A walking foot improves the feed of slippery layers.
• Choose clean seams. French seams suit lightweight satin and enclose the raw edges neatly.
• Finish every raw edge. Satin frays readily, so overlock, zigzag or bind edges you are not enclosing.
• Press gently. Use a low (synthetic or silk) setting, press from the wrong side and use a pressing cloth. Water drops can mark some satins, so test steam on a scrap first.

If you are using satin to line a jacket or dress, our lining fabrics include satin and other smooth options made for the job.

How to wash and care for satin

Always follow the care label first, because the fibre decides what satin can take.

• Polyester satin is usually washable on a cool, gentle cycle. Put it inside a mesh laundry bag to protect the surface from snags.
• Silk and acetate satins are usually hand wash or dry clean only.
• Do not wring satin, as this creases and can distort the weave. Gently squeeze out water instead.
• Dry flat or on a hanger, away from direct heat and sunlight.
• Iron on the reverse at a low setting.
• Store satin hanging or rolled rather than folded, to avoid hard creases.

Frequently asked questions

Is satin a natural fabric?

Satin itself is a weave, so it can be natural or synthetic depending on the fibre. Silk satin is made from a natural fibre. Viscose and acetate satins are made from regenerated or modified plant cellulose. Polyester and nylon satins are fully synthetic. Most affordable satin sold by the metre today is polyester, so check the fibre content on the listing.

Is satin the same as silk?

No. Silk is a fibre produced by silkworms, while satin is a way of weaving yarn so that long floats create a glossy face. Silk can be woven into satin, which gives silk satin, but most satin is made from polyester or other man-made fibres. Price, feel, sheen and the label are the easiest ways to tell them apart.

Is satin breathable?

It depends on the fibre. Silk and viscose satins breathe well, while polyester satin is much less breathable and can feel clammy, especially in nightwear.

Does satin stretch?

Standard satin has no stretch along the straight grain or crossgrain. Stretch satin contains a small amount of elastane for fitted garments, and all satin has some give on the bias.

Can you wash satin in a washing machine?

Polyester satin usually can. Use a cool, gentle cycle and put the item in a mesh laundry bag to reduce snagging, then dry it flat or on a hanger. Silk and acetate satins are usually hand wash or dry clean only, and viscose satin needs a gentle, cool wash because it can shrink. Always check the care label first.

Is satin good for pillowcases?

Satin is a popular pillowcase fabric because its smooth surface creates less friction than many cotton weaves, and it feels cool and soft to lie on. Both silk and polyester satin pillowcases exist. Polyester is more affordable and easier to machine wash, while silk is more breathable. A standard pillowcase needs about 0.75m of fabric.