The best fabric for a warm winter coat is a wool or wool-blend coating: a dense, heavier cloth that blocks wind and holds its shape. For a lighter autumn coat, jacket or trench, a medium-weight wool-rich or poly-wool fabric works well, as long as you back it with the right lining and interfacing. Most knee-length coats need roughly 2.5m to 3.5m of 140cm to 150cm wide fabric. Your pattern envelope gives the exact figure for your size.
The rest of this guide covers how to tell coating from jacketing, what the weights mean, how the main fabrics compare, how much to buy, and what a home-made coat costs in materials. If you are still choosing between cold-weather projects, the autumn fabrics guide is a good place to start.
Coating vs jacketing: what is the difference?
Both are usually wool or wool blends, and shops often sell them side by side. The difference is weight, density and how the cloth behaves once it is sewn.
- Coating is thick and dense, often with a brushed or felted surface (melton, boiled wool, heavy tweed, double-faced wool). It is built to be the outermost layer: it keeps out wind, holds a collar up on its own, and can be worn over a jumper without collapsing.
- Jacketing is lighter and more fluid. It suits blazers, tailored jackets, skirts and trousers, and it presses into crisp edges easily. On its own it is not warm enough for a January coat, but it makes a smart autumn coat, a trench or a duster once it is lined.
A simple test is to hold the fabric up to a window. If you can see light through it easily, it is jacketing or dress weight. If it blocks the light and feels firm when you scrunch it, it is behaving like coating.
What weight of fabric does a coat need?
Fabric weight is given in grams per square metre (gsm). Listings in the UK do not always quote it, and the same number can feel different depending on the weave and fibre. Treat these bands as a rough guide to what each weight is good for. The general effect of weight on drape is explained in how fabric weight affects drape, fit and comfort.
| Weight band | How it feels | Best coat or jacket use |
|---|---|---|
| Under 200gsm | Light to medium, drapes easily | Unlined jackets, trench and duster coats, shackets; a winter coat only with interlining |
| 200–350gsm | Medium to heavy, holds a shape | Blazers, lined autumn coats, car coats, pea coats in milder weather |
| 350gsm and up | Heavy coating, firm and wind-resistant | Winter overcoats, pea coats, duffle coats, capes |
If a listing gives no gsm, the description usually tells you enough: look for words like "medium weight", "rigid" or "soft drape", plus the fibre content. How to read fabric descriptions online covers what to look for.
Light fabric is not a dead end. A medium-weight wool-rich fabric, lined and interlined, can be as warm as a single layer of heavy coating, and it is easier to sew on a domestic machine. The section on lining below explains how.
The best fabrics for a coat, compared
| Fabric | Warmth | Ease of sewing | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool coating (melton, boiled wool) | High | Medium: bulky seams, needs pressing | Winter overcoats, pea coats, duffles | Heavy to handle; seams need grading |
| Wool-rich blend (wool and polyester) | Medium to high | Good | Lined coats, jackets, trenches | Lighter blends need interlining for winter |
| Poly-wool | Medium | Good: stable, creases less | Smart coats, blazers, uniforms | Less breathable than pure wool |
| Tweed and tartan wool | Medium to high | Medium: checks need matching | Heritage coats, capes, jackets | Extra fabric for pattern matching |
| Cotton corduroy | Medium | Good, but cut with the nap one way | Shackets, chore coats, jackets | Not windproof on its own |
| Cashmere and cashmere blends | Very high for the weight | Medium: soft, can shift | Luxury coats and wraps | Costly; handle gently |
| Fleece | Medium | Easy: no fraying | Casual jackets, linings, children's coats | Casual look; can pill |
| Coated polyester and other waterproofs | Low on its own | Medium: pins leave holes | Rain macs, shells | Seams need sealing to stay waterproof |
Wool and wool-rich blends
Wool is the classic coat fibre for good reasons. It stays warm when damp, it breathes, it presses and shapes beautifully under steam, and it hides stitches well. Pure wool coating is the warmest option per layer. Wool-rich blends with polyester cost less, crease less and are easier to look after, which makes them a sensible choice for a first coat. Our wool fabrics are mostly wool-rich and poly-wool blends in 3-metre pieces at about 140cm wide, which is enough for many coats in one length (see the quantity table below).
Tweed and tartan
Tweed and tartan wool make handsome coats and capes, but checks have to line up across the front, the side seams and the sleeves. Allow extra fabric for matching, and cut single-layer. Tartan fabric: 12 things to make explains how to match the checks, and the current range is in tartan fabrics.
Corduroy
Corduroy is not a winter overcoat fabric, but it is ideal for shackets, chore coats and lined jackets for spring and autumn. Wider wales look chunkier and suit outerwear. Cut every piece with the pile running the same way, or the colour will look patchy. The UK guide to corduroy, needlecord and jumbo cord covers wales and warmth, and the fabrics are in the corduroy range.
Cashmere
Cashmere and cashmere-wool blends give a lot of warmth for very little weight and feel lovely, but they cost more and need gentle handling. They are worth it for a long-term coat. More in why cashmere is worth choosing for warm projects.
Waterproof fabrics
A rain mac is a different project: you want a coated or tightly woven synthetic, not wool. Pins and unpicked stitches leave permanent holes, so use clips, and seal or tape the seams. Is polyester waterproof? explains which finishes keep the rain out.
Lining, interlining and interfacing: how to make a coat warm
A coat is usually three things, not one. The outer fabric gives the look, the lining lets it slide on over a jumper, and an optional interlining adds warmth. Lining vs interlining covers the difference in detail.
- Lining. A smooth, slippery fabric such as taffeta or polyester lining stops a wool coat catching on knitwear and hides the seams. Buy roughly the same length as the outer fabric. Our lining fabrics include taffeta in long lengths.
- Interlining. A soft, warm layer cut to the same shapes as the body and sleeves, then tacked to the lining or the outer fabric. Flannel, brushed cotton, thin wadding or fusible fleece all work. This is the trick that turns a medium-weight wool-rich fabric into a winter coat.
- Interfacing. A stiffer layer fused or sewn behind the front facings, collar, lapels, pocket openings and hems. It stops buttonholes stretching and keeps the collar standing. Look in interfacing and stabilisers for sew-in interfacing and iron-on fusible fleece.
For a casual jacket, an anti-pill or cuddle fleece can also be used as a cosy lining. It does not slide as well as taffeta, so it suits looser styles best.
How much fabric do you need for a coat?
These are typical ranges for an adult coat in the middle of the size range, cut from plain fabric. Always check the pattern envelope for your size and view, and add extra for checks, stripes, one-way prints or pile fabrics. For other projects, see the complete UK fabric quantity guide.
| Garment | 140–150cm wide fabric | 110–115cm wide fabric | Lining |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hip-length jacket or shacket | 1.8–2.3m | 2.5–3m | 1.5–2m |
| Mid-thigh pea coat or car coat | 2.2–2.8m | 3–3.5m | 2–2.5m |
| Knee-length coat | 2.5–3.5m | 3.5–4.5m | 2.2–3m |
| Calf-length or maxi coat | 3.5–4.5m | 4.5m and up | 3–3.5m |
| Cape (adult) | 2–3m | 3–3.5m | 2–3m |
Will a 3-metre piece be enough? At 140cm wide, a 3m length covers most hip-length jackets, pea coats and many knee-length coats in small to middle sizes. Long coats, large sizes, wide sleeves and check matching can push you past it, so lay the pattern pieces out on paper first, or buy a second piece in the same colour if it is available.
Can a beginner sew a wool coat?
Yes, if you choose the pattern carefully. A first coat goes much more smoothly with:
- A simple shape. Dropped shoulders, raglan or kimono sleeves, patch pockets and an unlined or bagged lining are far easier than set-in sleeves, welt pockets and a notched collar.
- A plain or small-scale fabric. Save big checks and pile fabrics for your second coat.
- A heavier needle and a longer stitch. A size 90 or 100 needle and a stitch length of around 3mm handle thick seams better. A walking foot helps the layers feed evenly.
- Lots of steam. Press every seam as you go, using a pressing cloth so wool does not go shiny. Grade the seam allowances inside collars and facings so they lie flat.
- A test garment. Make the body in cheap fabric first to check the fit across the shoulders and the sleeve length, with a jumper on.
Coats take time rather than special skills. Spread the work over several sessions and do the buttonholes last, after testing them on a scrap with all the layers in place.
What does it cost to make a coat?
This example uses prices from our own listings at the time of writing. They are indicative only, as prices and offers change, so check the current listings before you plan a budget.
| Item | Example | Indicative cost |
|---|---|---|
| Outer fabric | 3m wool-rich or printed wool, 140cm wide | about £8–£20 |
| Lining | 3m taffeta or matching lining | about £3–£5 |
| Interfacing | 1–2m sew-in interfacing | about £1–£2 |
| Interlining (optional) | Fusible fleece or brushed cotton | about £5–£10 |
| Buttons and thread | A pack of buttons and a reel of thread | about £3–£5 |
| Total | about £20–£42 |
The pattern is extra, and some patterns are free online. Even so, a lined wool-blend coat for well under £50 in materials compares well with buying one. For a wider look at the sums, read the UK cost breakdown to make your own clothes.
Planning other cold-weather makes as well? Best fabrics for winter sewing projects covers jumpers, scarves, blankets and more.
Coat fabric FAQs
What is the difference between jacketing and coating wool fabric?
Coating is heavier, denser and often brushed or felted, so it blocks wind and holds its shape as an outer layer. Jacketing is lighter and drapes more, which suits blazers, skirts, trousers and lined autumn coats.
What gsm should a winter coat fabric be?
Heavy coatings are usually 350gsm and above. A lighter fabric, around 160–250gsm, can still make a winter coat if you add an interlining such as fusible fleece, flannel or thin wadding under the lining.
How many metres of fabric do I need for a coat?
For 140–150cm wide fabric, allow about 2.2–2.8m for a mid-thigh coat, 2.5–3.5m for knee length and 3.5–4.5m for a long coat. Add extra for checks or larger sizes, and follow your pattern envelope.
Does a wool coat need a lining?
Not always, but most do. A lining makes the coat slide on over knitwear, hides seams and adds a little warmth. Unlined coats work well in felted fabrics such as boiled wool, where the edges do not fray.
Can I make a coat on a normal sewing machine?
Usually, yes. Use a size 90–100 needle, a longer stitch and a walking foot if you have one, and grade bulky seams. Very thick coatings may struggle through buttonholes, so test on a scrap first.
Is polyester or wool better for a coat?
Wool is warmer for its weight, breathes better and stays warm when damp. Polyester and poly-wool blends crease less, cost less and are easier to wash. A wool-polyester blend gives a balance of both.
